It’s Thursday. I moved here only two days ago? Three days and two nights.
I love it. It’s perfect. It has flaws. The hot water is working now. I already have internet service. I ordered it yesterday afternoon. They told me to expect an email where they would tell me the date of installation. But there was never any email and instead the technician just showed up today. I’m not sure how he knew I would be here.
It’s very quiet here at night. Trinidad was the quietest place I ever lived and now this is the quietest. It’s like Trinidad without sirens.
I cleaned the inside of the washing machine very thoroughly, it hadn’t been cleaned in a long time, but the machine works. It cleans clothes. And towels. I’ve used it twice. It works. It’s been raining here for a few days so it’s hard to dry things. There is a dryer but it needs cleaning and an extension cord. I haven’t tried it out.
I had lunch with my former landlord, and her daughter, the day I moved out. Tuesday. She told me her daughter was very religious and indeed Christianity and the bible were what she wanted to talk about over tacos. She wasn’t quite preachy, I wouldn’t say, but there was this subtle expectation that I might catch it from her if she talked about about how good Corinthians is. She said it’s about how when you accept Jesus into your life you start a new life. I said something like “it’s kind of like moving to Mexico,” and that fell flat. There was perhaps a little disappointment when I mentioned I was interested in Buddhism.
I asked them why there were so few churches in town, and explained that most Latin American towns have lots of churches. They seemed confused. They said there are a lot of churches. I don’t see them anywhere, though, or hear them. I’ve seen maybe four. I also told them I’m surprised to not hear any fireworks and that also confused them. They said people light fireworks on New Year’s Eve.
My new landlords are a young couple. Their family owns this house and the two houses on either side of it. They’re the only three houses on this side of the block, as about half the block is taken up by a municipal property that seems to be mainly a parking lot for trucks involved in public utilities. Most of that property is situated downhill from where my house sits, so I’m able to overlook some of the operations. There was a backhoe making some adjustments to one of the dirt parking lots and though it was probably a bit less than 100 yards from here, it wasn’t very loud.
The property directly behind this one is ambiguous, a courtyard surrounded by a few residential buildings that do not seem to have any direct access to roads, so they must be an extension of one of the houses on a nearby street, or they are somehow operated by the utility. I haven’t seen any people down there.
It’s a hilly neighborhood here. Parts of it. Some of the houses across the street have levels and terraces that look down on my side of the block, and out my back windows I look down on the utility trucks, houses and the nearest street that runs perpendicular to mine. And beyond all that, there are more distant residential areas lit up at night, with a wall of mountains behind them. Though the mountains are best viewed during the day. The combination of the very heterogeneous neighborhood architecture and the nearby mountains make it feel very Mexican, for lack of a better word, and certainly very, very different from where I lived during 1999-2024. The residential architecture doesn’t hide its temporal nature in the manner of American architecture, but foregrounds it, intentionally or not. Perhaps partly due to how expensive financing is, many dwellings appear to have been constructed incrementally, a little at a time, and rebar is often seen jutting from structures in the anticipation of potential future additions.
In American residential developments, you can’t always tell that time exists. You can’t tell there is a flow of time. Things generally are built all at once, and when there are additions built onto homes, they are made to blend in, more or less. Things that break get fixed, and the repairs are often invisible. In Mexico, the flow of time is apparent everywhere. Things that break don’t necessarily get fixed right away, additions on houses don’t always mimic the colors, shapes or textures of the structure to which they’re added. You can often tell just by looking at shelter that its purpose is to provide shelter, rather than to conceal history and pain.
This area is incredible. Right now I can’t imagine living in any other city in the world. And there is definitely no other part of the city I’d rather live in.
I’ve interacted with the landlords a lot in three days, partly because not everything is working as well as they expected, in some cases it’s due to miscommunications between the two of them. I wonder if the place was vacant for a while recently.
There is a parking space that I use as a patio. And it sits behind an automatic garage door. Seemingly a couple of times the door has opened spontaneously. But we’re going to watch to see if it happens again. I told them I was 97% sure I didn’t leave it open, but not 100% sure.
I had to order a propane tank for the hot water and stove. These things are not always assumed to be provided by the landlord. And then the water heater didn’t work, and that turned out to be the batteries in the ignition. The sparker thingy. So I got new batteries, and that fixed it for one shower, then it stopped working. So landlord returned with a technician, who determined the batteries I bought were regular old D batteries, and not the special kind of D batteries needed by the ignition. So he put in different batteries and now it works well.